sunnuntai 1. tammikuuta 2017

1880's formal / court presentation gown

In 2015 I had less than a week to make a gown for the Saturday night gala, so it had to be something simple, fast and straight forward. I decided to make a Victorian court presentation gown after one of Worth's gowns. Truly Victorian had just come up with a perfect skirt pattern that I was happy to use to save time on guess work. I only lengthened the train a little. The bodice pattern is my own.

It's made of duchess silk satin. The skirt and train are faced and the bodice lined with glazed cotton. The trim is silk tulle that was originally soft but was starched stiff, pleated and sequinned. It's worn over a lobster style bustle and two petticoats.

I found Kat's research for presentation accessories very helpful.

The inspiration

Late Victorian corset

Single layer cotton coutil corset with pink flossing. Gusseted corset with felled seams. Bone casings are formed with a tape sewn on the underside of the corset. It's boned with synthetic whalebone. 

This time I was much happier with the results. Bust is rounded and low and the busk curves nicely on the side profile. Waist is defined but not too waspy.

1880's corset

Single layer cotton coutil corset with pink flossing. It's sewn with seam allowances on the right side, covered with strips forming the boning channels. Boned with spiral steel.

I made this corset in spring 2015 but I wasn't happy with the shape. Bust is too tight and not rounded enough so it makes the overall shape all wrong. I thought I'd document regardless.

torstai 18. elokuuta 2016

Inspired by Lillie Langtry

The bodice in one of the Toulmouche paintings I used as an inspiration to make my natural form ball gown looked very similar to one Lillie Langtry was photographed wearing in mid 1880's. She looked so stunning in those photos that I wanted to try to replicate that with my gown when I was figuring out the details on how to trim the bodice.

And, as she was the obvious inspiration to my dress, I always wanted to try to pose in that dress like she did. I could never look as perfect as she did. This is as close as I could get. But it was a fun experiment.

Bustle back

On stage

Photo is taken in Alenksanterin Teatteri

tiistai 26. heinäkuuta 2016

Edwardian evening gown

It's made of duchess silk satin. Bodice is lined with cotton and covered with cotton bobbinet. All bodice seams are boned. Skirt is faced with silk satin and it has two cotton bobbinnet over layers. White tulle layer is covered with c. 7000 silver sequins, individually attached. Black tulle has a Greek key appliqué that I cut out of silk velvet and hand stitched in place. Rows of silver and gunmetal sequins border the tulle layers. I also added paper flowers as a decoration.

Straight seams are machine sewn, the rest is hand sewn. Skirt pattern is based on the 1901-1902 reception gown in Patterns of Fashion. Bodice is patterned by myself.

It's worn over a corset that I made from an Atelier Sylphe pattern that was drawn after an original Edwardian corset. Truly a great pattern. I'm also wearing one cotton petticoat.

Testing an S-curve pose.

The inspiration

Stitching the velvet appliqué.

Sequin project.

I used the same technique than in this original Edwardian dress.